EDINBURGH TO INVERNESS

The A9 road trip from Edinburgh to Inverness is one of Scotland’s most rewarding drives, a journey where the scenery grows more dramatic with every mile and the stops along the way feel carefully placed rather than accidental. It’s a route that invites you to take your time, turn the radio down and properly enjoy the Highlands unfolding ahead of you.

Heading north from Edinburgh, the Lowlands gradually soften into wooded hills before Dunkeld appears, one of the A9’s most charming early highlights. Set on the banks of the River Tay, Dunkeld is known for its handsome cathedral, elegant streets and easy access to woodland walks through The Hermitage, where towering Douglas firs and thundering waterfalls offer a memorable first taste of Highland scenery.

A short drive on brings you to Pitlochry, a classic Highland town that has been welcoming travellers for generations. With its stone buildings, independent shops and cafés, it’s an ideal place to pause for lunch or an overnight stay. Nearby attractions such as the Pitlochry Dam and Queen’s View add to the sense that this part of the journey is about more than simply getting from A to B.

Just beyond Pitlochry, the road leads to Blair Atholl, home to the striking Blair Castle. Set against rolling hills and ancient woodland, the castle’s whitewashed exterior and landscaped grounds make it one of the most photogenic stops on the route. It’s a place where history, landscape and architecture come together effortlessly.

Further north, The House of Bruar provides a refined Highland interlude. Renowned for its luxury Scottish clothing, homeware and gourmet food hall, it’s a popular stop for good reason. A short walk behind the store reveals a series of waterfalls and forest paths that make stretching your legs feel like part of the experience rather than a diversion.

As the road climbs into the Cairngorms, the scenery becomes broader and more elemental. Here you’ll find Dalwhinnie Distillery, one of Scotland’s highest distilleries, quietly producing whisky in a remote mountain setting. A visit offers a welcome pause and a warming dram, perfectly matched to the surrounding landscape.

From Dalwhinnie onwards, the A9 delivers long, open views across moorland, lochs and distant peaks before Inverness comes into view at the edge of the Highlands. It’s a journey defined not by speed, but by the quality of what lies along the way. With towns like Dunkeld and Pitlochry, historic castles, luxury stops and iconic distilleries, the A9 proves that the drive itself is every bit as memorable as the destination.

Dunkeld is the sort of place that quietly wins you over. Set on the banks of the River Tay and wrapped in deep woodland, it feels less like a stop on a route and more like a destination that rewards those who slow down and look properly.

The town itself is postcard-perfect. A single, elegant street runs through the centre, lined with pastel-painted buildings, independent shops and inviting cafés. There’s a gentleness to Dunkeld that’s increasingly rare, a sense that nothing is in a hurry. The nearby cathedral, weathered and dignified, anchors the town in history, while the surrounding trees soften every edge.

The River Tay is never far from view, flowing broad and steady through the landscape. In certain light it moves with the same amber calm as a well-aged whisky, unhurried, reflective and deeply Scottish. Walks along the riverbank are an essential part of any stay, whether you’re out early with the mist rising off the water or winding down as the day fades.

For those staying overnight, Dunkeld House Hotel offers a refined Highland retreat just outside the town. Set within expansive grounds, it combines classic country house style with modern comfort. Open fires, riverside walks and a sense of space make it an easy place to settle into, particularly after a day exploring the surrounding countryside.

Right in the heart of Dunkeld, the Atholl Arms Hotel stands proudly opposite the cathedral. Full of character and history, it’s long been a favourite with travellers passing through and those who come specifically to stay. The bar and restaurant are welcoming, with a menu that suits both relaxed lunches and lingering evening meals, and the rooms carry a traditional charm that feels entirely in keeping with the town.Sitting gently beside the River Tay, The Taybank is one of Dunkeld’s great pleasures and the kind of pub that feels instantly right the moment you walk in. Relaxed, characterful and perfectly placed, it captures the easy charm that defines the town itself.

With its terrace overlooking the river, The Taybank is at its best when the water slides past in that slow, whisky-coloured way Dunkeld does so well. On a bright afternoon, a table outside with a drink in hand feels like a reward rather than a plan. Inside, the atmosphere is warm and informal, a proper Highland pub without trying too hard to be one.

The food is honest and well judged, local produce treated with care rather than fuss, and the drinks selection leans proudly Scottish, with a strong showing of whisky, beer and well-chosen spirits. It’s a place where walkers, locals and travellers naturally mix, adding to the sense that this is very much part of the fabric of Dunkeld rather than a stop designed for it.

Whether you’re staying at the Atholl Arms, visiting from Dunkeld House Hotel or simply passing through town, The Taybank is the sort of place you end up lingering longer than intended. A pub shaped by its setting, its river views and its unforced hospitality, it’s one more reason Dunkeld stays with you long after you’ve left.Dunkeld doesn’t shout for attention. It doesn’t need to. Its beauty lies in balance, river and woodland, history and hospitality, quiet streets and generous landscapes. Whether you arrive for a few hours or a few nights, it leaves you with the sense that you’ve discovered something rather than simply visited it.

North of Pitlochry, as the A9 presses deeper into the Highlands, the landscape opens into Monarch of the Glen country, wide, cinematic and instantly recognisable. This is the stretch where Scotland feels vast rather than dramatic, where space itself becomes part of the experience. Newtonmore and Kingussie sit quietly within this grandeur, small Highland towns shaped by mountains, rivers and long views.

Newtonmore lies at the heart of the Cairngorms, surrounded by sweeping moorland and distant peaks. It has a calm, grounded feel, a place built for walkers, anglers and those who prefer their Highlands unpolished and real. The River Spey winds nearby, adding movement and light to the landscape, while the open skies give the town a sense of scale that’s both humbling and restorative.

Just along the road, Kingussie carries a similar spirit, slightly more spread out, framed by ancient woodland and backed by the Cairngorm massif. It’s a town that works as an ideal base for exploring the national park, whether that means hill walks, cycling or simply taking in the stillness that defines this part of the world. The surrounding glens stretch out in long, elegant lines, the kind of scenery that doesn’t need explanation.

This is classic Monarch of the Glen territory, land of red deer silhouettes, purple heather and long, golden evenings. The drama here is subtle but powerful, built from light, weather and distance rather than cliffs and castles. Roads run straight and purposeful through open ground, lochs catch the sky, and the Highlands feel ancient, patient and unchanged.

Passing through Newtonmore and Kingussie is a reminder that some of Scotland’s most memorable landscapes are not the ones that shout the loudest. They’re the ones that stay with you, quietly, long after the road has carried you north towards Inverness.

Inverness arrives not with a grand announcement, but with confidence. Set where the River Ness slows and widens on its way to the Moray Firth, it feels less like the end of a journey and more like a well-earned reward. A compact city with a generous spirit, Inverness blends Highland heritage with a modern, easygoing energy.

The River Ness is the city’s spine, calm and purposeful, threading green islands, elegant bridges and riverside walks through the centre. Life in Inverness orbits the water. Morning coffee by the river, afternoon wandering along its banks, evenings watching the light soften as the city settles. It gives Inverness a sense of openness rarely found in cities of its size.

Shopping here is surprisingly strong and refreshingly walkable. Inverness city centre, Eastgate and the Victorian Market offer a mix of well-known brands, independent shops and specialist Scottish retailers selling everything from cashmere and jewellery to local food and gifts worth taking home. It’s the kind of place where browsing feels relaxed rather than rushed, with cafés and restaurants never far away when you need a pause.

When it comes to food, drink and entertainment, Inverness punches well above its weight. From lively bars and whisky lounges to stylish restaurants showcasing Highland produce, the city has developed a confident dining scene. Live music venues, theatres and performance spaces keep evenings busy, while riverside pubs and late-opening bars ensure there’s always somewhere welcoming to end the night.

Inverness manages something rare. It feels both lively and laid-back, a city that knows exactly what it is. Framed by water, rich in culture and unexpectedly good for shopping and nightlife, it’s a place that makes staying a little longer feel like the most natural decision in the world.

Inverness is also the perfect place to pause, regroup and decide where the road leads next. Sitting at a natural crossroads of the Highlands, it invites you to keep driving rather than turn back too soon. From here, two of Scotland’s most rewarding routes open out in opposite directions, each offering a very different kind of beauty.

Head north and the adventure ramps up almost immediately as you join the NC500. This iconic route carries you along dramatic coastlines, empty beaches, towering cliffs and small fishing villages where the sea defines the pace of life. The scenery feels raw and expansive, with long stretches of road skirting lochs and ocean, often with little more than sky and water for company. It’s a route made for lingering lunches, unexpected viewpoints and nights spent under vast northern skies.

Alternatively, turn south-west and ease into a more reflective return via Loch Ness. The drive along the loch is quietly atmospheric, dark water pressed tight against steep, wooded slopes, the road tracing its edge like a thoughtful line. From here, the journey continues through Glen Coe, where the Highlands gather themselves into one final, unforgettable statement. Sheer mountains rise abruptly from the valley floor, light and shadow constantly reshaping the landscape as you pass through.

Whether you choose the wild edges of the NC500 or the brooding drama of Loch Ness and Glen Coe, Inverness gives you the luxury of choice. It’s not just a destination, but a decision point, a place where one great Highland journey naturally leads into another. The only real challenge is deciding which direction to take first.